After two weeks in major cities, the Atlas Mountains and Sahara Desert my Exodus Travels’ Moroccan tour arrives in Essaouira on the Atlantic; a charming seaside city.
Our bus pulls up to the curb just across from the beach that is nearly deserted. Here, two men with carts unload our luggage and we follow them into a maze of narrow pedestrian streets as they push the carts. The hotels, souvenir shops and restaurants are white with blue trim adding to their beauty.

We arrive at Riad Maison du Sud right in the heart of the medina which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s late, but the next day our tour calls for a free day to explore the medina on our own.

I first head for the water. The wind blows so hard here that relaxing on the beach is nearly impossible, so there are no hordes of beach tourists. Known as the ‘Wind City of Africa,’ it does attract windsurfers between April and November. What I find instead is the fish market and dozens of blue fishing boats. I also discover the 18th century fort and ramparts.
In 1506 the Portuguese built a fortress on this site lending to the city’s European influence. In 1760, the sultan Mohammed III ordered the construction of the city and ramparts. From the time of its rebuilding until the end of the 19th century, Essaouira served as Morocco’s principal port. Goods of the caravan trade from the sub-Saharan to Timbuktu were transported through the desert and over the Atlas Mountains. The road from Marrakesh to Essaouira is a straight line explaining why the sultan chose this city over other ports.

The fish market is wedged between the ocean and the fort. Here individuals, merchants and restaurants are busy buying every fish imaginable. The outdoor market is located at the water’s edge. Blue fishing boats are moored nearby. Some men peddle their fish while others repair their nets. Overhead are flocks of seagulls and underfoot pleasantly satisfied cats meander between makeshift booths or sleep in the sunshine.

Visit in the early hours of the morning for the chance to see the fishermen returning with the catch or visit before lunch to witness the sale of the daily catch.


From the fish market and fort I wander through the medina. The medina is well preserved and easy to navigate. Built between the 18th and 19th centuries, the oldest area is the Kasbah, a fortified area where dignitaries lived. I walk along spice-scented lanes and stop to admire pottery, brightly colored clothing, woodworking and art. There are also small craft workshops in the medina. I spend the day shopping and chatting with merchants.
As the sun begins to lower in the west, I walk to Il Mare restaurant known for its exceptional seafood and location directly by the sea.

Just as the sun sets, I watch people walking along the ramparts below me, past cannons that once protected the city while others are aiming their cameras toward the tangerine and yellow sky.
Essaouira is another chapter in my Moroccan adventure; one I enjoyed and can easily recommend.
Tags: Morocco, UNESCO
Before I read your post about Essaouira I had barely heard of it. Looks like an interesting place to visit. I especially like that shade of blue on the boats and doors.
It was such a beautiful city! I really enjoyed my time there.
Wow, Essaouira sounds so different from Tangiers…more laid back. And you listed right in the heart of the Medina. Such history all around, plus the beauty of the blue boats.
It was totally different from anything else I experiences in Morocco. I really enjoyed my day of exploration!
Thx for the fascinating look at this Moroccan gem. I’ve not yet been to Morocco, but have found your posts intriguing.
You will love Morocco. It is so different than any other country I’ve been in. So many influences make it stand out.
I’ve heard a lot about Essaouira and you made it look wonderful! I’ve been wanting to go to Morocco for the last couple of years, but have shied away because of the talk about tourist women getting very hassled in the markets. Did that happen to you?
I didn’t have any trouble at all in the markets and I am a shopper. Most of my free time was spent in the markets and souks. I had a wonderful time.
Essaouira looks magical. I would love to see Morocco – I just have to convince hubby!
You will love Morocco when you convince your husband to go. I traveled in Morocco for 15 days from cities to the Atlas Mountains and desert. The whole country is magical!
I am interested in going to Morocco, and never heard of Essaouira. I also think of the desert and colorful Moroccan cities, but never the beach when thinking of Morocco. I, too, like to go to fish markets, and would also choose to eat seafood.
Is the medina safe to walk around on your own? Are the crafts inexpensive and how is bargaining for them?
It is safe to be on your own during the day. There are lots of locals and tourists around plus the merchants are friendly and not too aggressive when trying to sell you something. Watch out for things like cobras on the ground in the square (seriously), and watch your purse just like anywhere else. There are a lot of crafts that are inexpensive. It just depends on what you are looking for. I really enjoyed my time in Essaouira!
Essaouira sounds so interesting . I’ve at times considered a visit to Morocco. Everything I’ve ever seen looks amazing. The history and the culture are of particular interest. Thanks for the informative post
Morocco is amazing and so diverse — from the Atlas Mountains and desert to the seashore! I hope you can travel there. I am sure you will enjoy your stay!
Essaouira looks beautiful – I love the colours! I really need to go back to Morocco…
The colors were a wonderful surprise after the desert and mountains. Morocco, as you know, is such a diverse country. I loved it there!
Morocco is a big hole in our travel history. We’ve got to get there one of these days, and this looks a lovely stop to add to the tour. So different from the usual fare. Thanks for the tips.
When you visit Morocco, go beyond the cities into the mountains and desert as well as Essaouira. There is so much to see and experience!
I visited Essaouira quite a few years ago and I do remember that wind being relentless. Aside from the constant breeze, I did find it charming, with a lovely market and some unusual crafts that had taken the leather work to another level. I wonder if there is a time of year the wind subsides? Thanks for the memories.
That’s a great question about the wind. Honestly, it wasn’t that bad when I was there in February. I wonder if it depends on weather patterns. I loved wandering through the medina and watching the craftsmen too and prices were good.
I haven’t been back to Morocco for a long time and Essaouira sounds really interesting, especially the fish market with those blue boats.
It is so different from the other areas of Morocco I explored. I really enjoyed the laid back atmosphere and the interesting fish market.